April 16, 2011

Fabric: Navy blue silk charmeuse from ebay's "happygoodbuy", and cream silk twill from Denver Fabrics
Pattern: Draped by me

For 7th Sea, but sort of for reenacting, I started a navy blue silk charmeuse robe a l'anglaise with a cream silk twill stomacher and petticoat. The cream silk twill is understated elegance incarnate. It is this gorgeous grayish pearly cream color that looks like it's softly glowing. The charmeuse is really floaty and moves very dramatically. I got a sweet deal on it on ebay from a seller named "happygoodbuy".

The gown is a full 3 yards, and the petticoat too. I was going for something vaguely reminiscent of an 18th century navy uniform. I was also giving thought to attaching epaulets so I can wear all of my naval bling with it.

Next step is to put buttonholes in the stomacher and trim the angle on the front so the stomacher lines up correctly. I mis-cut the angle on the front, but that's not such a huge deal. I may end up ordering more fabric for self trim and facings, but now for some creative scrap arrangement.

Update: 11:35 pm - I dragged out the mock up and cut facings around the neckline so the white from the cotton lining would not show. The was not difficult, but tedious none the less. I re-cut the angle on the front, and with any luck, the stomacher will fit in as it should. I got 15 little pearly buttons.

It's more of a Victorian asthetic, but I think it will work. Inside out it has an unfortunate resemblance to a sailor suit, but having the facings there (right side out) will enable me to keep the dress free of trim. Without the facings, I would likely have used ruching to hide the white poking out from the lining. The character I intend to use the dress for is not exactly the frills and lace type, so the simpler the better.

The point at the back took some fiddling. This is not exactly the perscribed official stitch-counter-approved way of doing things, but it does make things lay flat.

I actually added sleeve flounced, but I may take them off again. They kind of spoil the whole simplistic understated elegance thing I had going on.

Update 10:33 am Sunday - Trimmed blue gown and hemmed it. Next up is fussy finishing work, and ripping my way through thirteen buttonholes. I want to drive through this project quickly because I have three more to get done before the second week of may! I have my 1812 Sari Ballgown, my mom's sage/olive green silk charmeuse 1812 ballgown and a commission for the museum. Busy busy!

Monday, June 18, 2012 I have been working a very demanding job, and I have had very limited time for sewing. I did however sneak a few projects in under the radar. This is the re-cut bodice of the navy blue anglaise I time. This dress I made last May needed an overhaul. The interlining I used was a terrible hand-me-down cotton brocade that was way too thick and stretched not at all. The bodice never fit quite right, and I decided I had cut it way too low in the back. I just re-cut a new bodice with a higher neckline in the back, and no stomacher. Just hooks and eyes down the front, but I was an idiot and forgot to face the front closure. Now it has a hideous display of the white cotton lining at the gap. I may go back and fix that, or more likely, just cover it over with more pleated ribbon trim.

made last May. I added the sleeve flounces too.

In its future: fine linen sleeve flounces with white lace, and much more pleated ribbon trim.

I think the higher back looks much more polished than the lower cut one I originally made. The silk move so beautifully. I need to engineer more excuses to wear this gown.

I tracked down a sutler at the Rock Ford event in Lancaster PA - the very same sutler that I bought the ribbon around the neckline from at an event the previous August. I got an additional 15 yards. My intention is to do the same pleating around the sleeves at the elbow and down the front.